Lanvin fuses sartorial and street to cap Paris menswear week
PARIS (AP) — Actress Gabrielle Union joined French actor Reda Kateb on the front row of the edgy Lanvin show at Paris Fashion Week.
Here are some highlights from Sunday, the last day of spring-summer 2018 menswear collections.
LANVIN’S HYBRID STYLE
It was sartorial fused with street. As VIP guests looked on, Lucas Ossendrijver’s passion for hybrid styles found its voice on the catwalk for Lanvin.
The veteran Dutch menswear designer took suits with a flavor of the 1950s and mixed them up with sports references, on-trend baggy pants, hoodies and sneakers. The combinations produced a strong spring-summer collection from the storied Parisian house.
A loose, rippling gray worker’s overall was given a luxurious makeover, worn under a dark gray wool knee length coat. Loose double breasted jackets with retro rolled up sleeves were accessorized with white, ’50s belts and white streetwear sneakers.
But it was not all wintery — owing to unexpected flashes of bright red summer Bermudas.
There were also plenty of clever fashion ideas.
A sartorial Prince of Wales check jacket was fused into sportswear with geometric patterning on the shoulder, zips, studs, tassels and an exposed bright orange interior. Bright Cerulean blue gave a freshness to an inverted sartorial raincoat and made guests dream of the ocean.
FASHION NAVEL GAZING
The stereotype of young VIP Fashion Week attendees as rich, soulless attention-seekers wasting their parents’ money has now been transformed into a fashion concept.
“Enfants Riches Deprimes” (Depressed Rich Kids) was founded some years ago by a conceptual artist not lacking in irony called Henri Alexander Levy. Levy was profoundly marked by his education at the super-rich Institut Le Rosey boarding school in Rolle, Switzerland, and various other boarding schools. He decided to turn those experiences into fashion.
Since 2013, one of the core values of the house is simply to maintain exorbitant price tags — T-shirts cost up to $1,000 and couture jackets are priced as high as $95,000.
Its first Paris Fashion Week show was being held — in a humorous touch — at the symbol of all things moneyed — Christie’s auction house.
The label’s style of juxtaposing tailored wear with brutally ripped garments at eye-watering prices has earned the house somewhat of a cult-like following. Fans now include celebrities such as Jared Leto, Kanye West, Beyoncé, Courtney Love, Justin Bieber, Guns N’ Roses, and Zayn Malik.
AGNES B. DREAMS OF THE SEA
The fashion magazine shoots of the 1950s and ’60s were the muse for French designer Agnes B.’s playful spring-summer menswear display.
Male models struck sometimes exaggerated retro poses against the backdrop of a giant photograph of what could have been the French Riviera and the Mediterranean Sea.
It harked back to the retro photos of Vogue magazine — and was very much tongue in cheek. The styles, on the whole, mirrored this era — barring the odd tail coat and soft contemporary overall.
Blue suede shoes, black-and-white brogues mixed with a single-breasted ’60s suit that was buttoned high.
The best look was a bright yellow ’50s jacket with vivid blue pants, capped with a giant square ’60s travel bag. The model who wore it posed with his right foot behind his left foot in opposite directions as post-war fashion models used to do. It provoked chuckles from the guests.
KENZO’S ASIAN MUSING
Kenzo went against its grain and channeled the sartorial for spring-summer.
Designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, who normally do not stray from the unpredictable street vibe, buttoned up at the start of their menswear show
High double buttons, ruffled Asian sleeves, and triple pockets defined the very stylish suit styles, some of which were given street cred with baggy Asian-style Burmudas.
Suits in purple sported utilitarian pockets that evoked Chinese revolutionary garb.
It was very cool.
But menswear fashion isn’t what it used to be.
The collection also showcased women’s designs for spring-summer, a growing trend for designers.
The fusion from men’s to women’s clothes was handled with sensitivity via stripy statement socks, bold patterns and pure colors.
Lim and Leon then had some fun with optical kinetic stripes that were asymmetrical and draped.
Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K