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Review: Ro-Ho Pork & Bread turns tortas into high art

April 25, 2019

Note: This is an abbreviated version of the full Taste Test review, with a star rating based on multiple visits. See the complete version on our subscriber site ExpressNews.com.

Ro-Ho Pork & Bread. Simple, right?

Pork butt cooked down and chopped into carnitas. Crusty birote loaves baked fresh every day. Put one in the other.

Pork and bread. Done.

But like the best of the simple things, the real beauty of Ro-Ho Pork & Bread lies in the elegant complexity behind the simple thing. The sandwich is a torta ahogada, built on a torpedo roll with carnitas, then drowned in a sauce somewhere between salsa and marinara.

Every element pulled its weight.

On ExpressNews.com: The best tacos in San Antonio

The bread started crunchy outside with a dense fluff inside, and the textures transformed as the sauce worked its way through them, moving through phases like rippled velvet and French toast and finally something like tres leches cake, the sweetness replaced by tomato and chiles.

Even if Ro-Ho Pork & Bread would never be confused with a high-tone restaurant, it deserves the same two-star rating as any place that stands among the best of its kind in the city.

To read the full review, please visit our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com.

Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read him on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking